Small Change

We have just spent six days anchored in a wide, mostly empty, bay. Our first visit here was considerably shorter and the isolation was accentuated by grumbly north winds tumbling down the hills and grumpy fists of dirty fat clouds punching overhead. Yes, the weather certainly does affect moment and…

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Remezzo

Cafes in Greece are a mixture of the lively and indifferent like anywhere else but occasionally we discover a little gem, a safe haven, where we know the welcome will be genuine and the coffee pretty good. Two such favourites share the same name ‘Remezzo’. The first discovery came at…

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Best Laid Plans

We had a good solid plan, to enjoy several weeks in The Cyclades. This was to include spending time with friends on Paros and some return visits to little islands South of Naxos. Instead Kate returned to Milford for nearly three weeks and Simon his time dodging inclement weather, mostly…

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Island Scents

So here we are…hemmed in again but not oppressed. Mountains on three sides and the quay with shops and tiers of white cubic apartments on the fourth. The forecast is for rising winds and gusty gusts throughout the night but we are prepared. Thankfully Simon’s on-going scrutiny of the internet…

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Hemmed in

The main harbour of Hydra must be the most action packed watery enclave in Greece. From the very first rays of sunlight to the threes and fours of an already exhausted am this little hub positively thrums. We arrived on a cloud of optimism one mediocre Wednesday at 10.30 and…

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Harbour life

Sitting on the bow, decks splattered brown with Saharan rain. I am watching a fishing village roll through Saturday hours like children in long grass. The quay is idly slung with scruffy day boats, scuffed but usefully awaiting a steady grandfather or his cocky son. Larger, though no smarter vessels occupy…

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Marmalade days

Orthodox Easter was one week later than in UK and I joined Simon and Kezzie on Rope Sole just as the temperatures started to creep up and preparations to celebrate began. These Greeks consider us northerners rather reckless as we cast off our clothing at the merest hint of sunshine,…

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Waiting for the wind

Early morning Kezzie walks always yield a bounty of local knowledge and usually a few flowers too. Today we woke to an early chill which slid rapidly earthwards as the sun triumphed from Australia onto yet another Aegean blue canvas. A perfect remedy after a little night time fretting and…

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Behind the Scenes

I’ve been a bit slack on posts this summer but there have been instances and encounters on my mind so this is a broad sweep of recent days. The back streets are always worth investigating, Kezzie and I enjoy a good sniff ‘n stroll and of course Poros comes high…

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Treasures

The Greek islands have long been treasure boxes of talent and one of the joys of spending generous dollops of time here is the hunt and discovery of the artisans and entrepreneurs who quietly develop and display it Since the economic crisis in Greece we have seen the closure of…

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